Thursday, December 01, 2011

Izakaya Den

I first ate at Izakaya Den shortly after returning from full time London life.  Moo was nowhere near to Muenchen and we went for lunch.  I recall the bar/restaurant being empty because it wasn't peak hour.  Like numerous Melbourne bars, it was not an easy find.  Poorly signposted, it was only found after descending a flight of nondescript stairs, pushing open the glass door and pulling aside a black curtain.  Oh yep, now you're in an uber-cool basement bar.  Kudos to the coolness.  

But I was there to eat and after paying $60 for lunch for two, I left underwhelmed.  Australia sure had gotten expensive in my time away and I was appalled at dishing out ~£40 for lunch.  Wtf.  We had the set lunch plus non-alcoholic drinks and it was probably the beverages which tilted the meal over into the expensive.  Food was average, portions teetered on the 'just enough to not be starving' side but at the time I recall not being in a rush to return.  

Anyway this place is lauded with rave reviews and I had been told that dinner was better than lunch, so I was happy to give it another bash.  Spuey again ready to help me out.  
Our water is served in cute cups.  

The menu is somewhat seasonal and there are daily specials.  I can't remember prices of some dishes we ate but I'll give it a go. 
Kingfish sashimi ($17), miso soup with clams ($10) and grilled pork belly ($15?). 

The kingfish went down a treat.  Nice and plump pieces of fish with a tasty dressing.  The miso soup was a huge serving and I guess the $10 price tag covers the cost of the clams.  Pork belly - well you can't really go wrong with a pig's tummy but not my fave dish tonight - a bit bland. 

Sweet corn kaki-age ($7), tuna tartare with avocado, sesame and ginger ($15) and quail three ways ($15?).

The sweet corn kaki-age were just corn fritters.  Tastes like what you'd expect.  Like corn.  Tuna tartare was yummy but I could have eaten an extra serving.  The quail was served with three dressings - horseradish, a salty chilli sauce and some herby, basil pesto like sauce (can't remember).  I had expected maybe three or four pieces of quail but maybe I'm a greedy guts.  I didn't really like the salty chilli sauce but Spu thought it was ok. 

I understand why dishes need to be small - it's an izakaya and they traditionally serve bar snacks, intent for sharing.  But $7 for a plate of corn fritters?  Reduce it to $5 and I won't moan.  Six plates between Spu and I was a good number to get us satisfied although much of the belly filling was due to the miso soup.  Nevertheless we of course had left room for dessert. 
Apple mille feuille ($10). Black sesame and orange creme brulee ($10). 

Watching the dessert chef make the mille feuille - wah much effort yet easy to do.  Spoon out a layer of apple sorbet, put on an apple chip, then repeat those two steps until you reach a desired height.  Top with honey.  Probably the healthiest dessert to have ever existed - it's an apple!  The creme brulee was super tasty and Spu cleaned out the ramekin to his best ability.  I don't want to ignore the effort required to make the mille feuille but it was essentially just.. an... apple and it tasted like... an... apple.  But that doesn't mean it wasn't good!  The creme brulee was just better with the intensity of sesame flavour undeniably potent.

I can't help but continue to think that Melbourne still has gotten the short end of the Japanese food stick.  The food definitely wasn't bad at Izakaya Den but it was still something that is in abundance on the Sydney Japanese restaurant scene.  At $70 a head it wasn't cheap and I'm convinced that I can get a similar meal in Sydney for $50-60.  I should probably stop the comparisons but I can't help it!  I am spoilt for choice in the Harbour City.  That being said, it seems as though new Japanese restaurants are popping up everywhere in Melbourne and I have yet to check them out.

In short, the Den deserves it's reviews but only just.  I'll be back for dinner again - the dishes were definitely better.  

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