Krakow: Auschwitz-Birkenau Camp

The Auschwitz-Birkenau concentration camp (or more commonly referred as just 'Auschwitz') has long been on my must-do list.  The genocide that occurred during WWII has always struck me as utterly and plainly bewildering.  The sheer effort, the extensive planning, the systematic processes, the pure efficiency in which the act was carried out - this is a part of modern history which should remain acknowledged. You would think that humanity would learn from the past but more recent atrocities suggest that this is not the case.  For anyone traveling to Krakow, I recommend you put it on your itinerary.



Our tour began with a morning bus collection.  The drive to Oświęcim (the Polish name for Auschwitz) took about an hour.  You can check out the official website for information on making your own way to Auschwitz but I suggest you save yourself the hassle and book one of the many tours available.  They usually range between 90-120 Zlotys (ours being 89 Zlotys, approx. £20) and for that price will include a guided tour of Auschwitz I (main and original camp) and Auschwitz II (Birkenau).  There also exists Auschwitz III (Monowitz) but it was not part of the tour.  I think it was destroyed, nevertheless the guide assigned to our group said there was nothing to see there.

The infamous Arbeit macht frei ('work sets you free') gate under which all prisoners passed through when they arrived at the main camp, Auschwitz I.  The slogan was used to give unsuspecting victims false hope.  As the guide informed us, this hope was also the basis why many victims purchased their own train ticket to the camp, thinking that they would escape persecution.  


 


No photography is allowed indoors where the permanent exhibitions are displayed.  Within Block 4 behind a panel of glass was a collection of human hair taken from the victims, a lot of which were still tied in plaits or payots.  This particular exhibit extended a considerable room length and for all the tossy deniers out there, well there was certainly enough evidence in this room to demonstrate that something atrocious had indeed occurred during the Nazi regime.  The most disturbing revelation was how the Nazi's used the hair to manufacture carpets and rugs, one of which was on display. 


Block 5 contained personal items seized from the victims upon their arrival.  Many had brought all their personal belongings to the camp, believing that they were being given a chance at a 'better life'.  It explains why of all things the victims brought items such as kitchenware and their best clothes.  A room full of shoes and prosthetic limbs was also included.

The sign outside Block 10 explains it's use for medical experiments which were mainly conducted on women. 

Block 11 was the most feared by prisoners as it was known amongst them as the 'Death Block'.  Experiments determining the efficacy of Cyclon B were conducted in cells here.  Also located here were the solitary cells and the much worse 'Standing Cells' where victims would die from exhaustion after working all day long only then to stand with three others in a cell instead of lying down to sleep. 

Next to Block 11 was a small yard containing a reconstruction of the ricochet-proof Death Wall and also the 'posts' from which prisoners were hung with arms tied above them until their shoulders broke.  

Auschwitz I began as the only camp and the site of the early exterminations.  This is one of the first gas chambers on site and served as a prototype for the ones which were constructed on Birkenau. 

From there our tour continued with a short ride to Birkenau (Auschwitz II) which was built to cope with the overcrowding at the main camp and eventually served as the main site for extermination. 

We were taken through the wooden buildings where prisoners slept.  Bunks were constructed to slant slightly and four to five people were assigned to each bed.

The slanting bunks not only allowed prisoners to exit their beds more quickly without the use of a ladder but it also made the beds smaller, thereby more bunks and more prisoners could be crammed in to each building.  Krakow has stifling, hot Summers and freezing, snowy Winters and the living conditions would have been grueling to say the least. 

The communal amenities was the one place where prisoners could talk amongst themselves and bandy together away from the SS soldiers who were revolted by the stench.  Prisoners were rushed through each morning and basins were often bypassed as washing hands and faces meant losing valuable work time.  Prisoners who were assigned toilet maintenance duties were considered 'lucky' as they were sheltered away from the elements. 

It is unbelievable that camps of such size managed to remain hidden to the Allies.  In spite of that, I had imagined Auschwitz covered much larger grounds.  How else would they accommodate the huge numbers of victims?  Errrr......Pardon my asininity but obviously the Nazis didn't care for 'accommodation' and having an over-crowded camp was of no concern to them. 

[As a side rant - Since returning to London, I found it astonishing and outrightly bizarre to hear one person say to me:  "Oh, why would you go there?  It happened so long ago.  That's so depressing.  I wouldn't want to go there.  I don't want to be depressed".

I mean, seriously.. wtf??  Who says things like that?  I'm not about to paint myself a hero, but that last sentence just ticked.... me.... off and speaks volumes about their oblivion and lack of respect and sensitivity for those who perished   At the very most, that particular person should have rephrased and instead said something along the lines of "I don't think I could handle visiting Auschwitz" and refrained from being horrified and stunned at the fact that I did indeed visit the site.  Sheesh.]

Our tour returned us to the centre of town which was going about being lively as usual and an outdoor concert perfectly complimented the balmy evening.

We chose to have dinner at Babci Maliny which was recommended for cheap, traditional Polish fare.  They have several restaurants of which we ate at the Szpitalna branch.

The restaurant is decked out with rustic benches which you often end up sharing with strangers as this place is popular with students, locals and tourists.  There's even a live budgie in cage to boot. 

For all the lack of fuss on the ground floor, the basement is a totally different world complete with a piano-playing matire'd.  Otherwise, it is run with minimal fanfare whereby you place your order at the bar, find yourself a seat and then wait for the Polish women to yell out your number... in Polish of course!  Smee thought it best that he stand at the bar and monitor each dish and query if it was ours. 

 

 (T-B, L-R)  Goulash stew served in bread (yum!), Smee's ground beef fillet, my pierogi (which I didn't take a liking to - too dry) and consequently ordered a stew. Hehehe... hearty!

If you're after a hearty, honest meal, then Babci Maliny is a good bet.  If you're vegetarian, well you might need to go to a salad bar afterward.  I mentioned the food was cheap.  It was ridiculously so - we bought all the above for less than £10! 

 

Enjoying my meal under the hanging cured meats.  Such suitable decoration!

Even though we were exploding, I insisted on having dessert - Babci Maliny's special pancakes!  So much effort was put into my £2 dessert that I felt bad for not finishing it. 

I need not mention that we chose to walk to back to our apartment in a vain attempt to counter tonight's calories.