My trip to Prague served two purposes:
1. Tick it off my list of cities to visit and maybe more importantly so.. ....
2. Obtain frequent flyer points before 30 April to make all this airline loyalty worthwhile. Then I will finally reap the benefit of being allowed an extra 10kg in free checked luggage. Yay - more shopping!
I had originally booked to go last Tuesday but
The Volcano had his own plans. After committing to the 90 minute queue on the Expedia hotline (twice - thankfully I had a handsfree), I managed to re-book my trip. Given that this was essentially an exercise in accruing loyalty points, it was pretty much a do-it-on-the-cheap-jump-on-the-plane-hit-up-some-sights-and-get-back-to-London trip. This meant that Smee couldn't come on a weekday speed trip to Prague with me. I was all alone. A potential target for people-traffickers. Or maybe a
Hostel situation? Oh no!
Getting a cab from the airport was no trouble but to get to the city, there was a tedious drive up and down some windy roads. The taxi driver initially dropped me off at the wrong hotel but realised his mistake promptly. I thought 'Phew, good thing I'm not staying there, cos the hotel didn't look that great and it seemed kinda far.'
When he finally brought me to my actual hotel, I thought he made another mistake.
Check out the welcoming door to my 3-star hotel. Hmmmmmm.... yes...right...
The tiny sign adjacent to door confirming that this indeed was my
Hotel Halkova.
The door was locked so I buzzed my way in. An empty corridor greeted me but I wandered in through and found the reception desk tucked away in it's own room. After collecting my key fob, I made my way to my room.
The door to my Czechian abode.
I had seen pictures of the hotel and I wasn't expecting the
Burj Al Arab but rotting floorboards weren't expected either. I do have to give props for the sheer size of my room which actually comprised of a bedroom and a sitting room. My bathroom was out in the communal corridor I shared with the adjacent room (I was aware of this) but the toilet door lock did not work. Excellent.
The weird thing about the bedroom was the inclusion of a bed/mattress/couch/divan/wtf-is-this-thing. It didn't have a proper bed linen on it and there was not one but two of them. I figured that these were intended for backpackers who had BYO-ed their own sleeping bags.
I didn't have to sleep on either weird mattress thingies, luckily I had my own wrought iron bed. I wasn't in Prague to watch TV but could it get any smaller?
"Properties in this classification place a greater emphasis on comfort and service, with many offering an on-site restaurant and bar. Baggage assistance is often available. Guestrooms typically feature more space, comfortable seating, and better quality bedding. Bathrooms are often larger, with shower/tub combinations and expanded counter space."
C'mon Expedia. You have got to be kidding me. I know I was being a bit tight-arse on this trip but seriously? You can't call this 3-star! Reading the other classifications, I felt Hotel Halkova fell into the 1.5-star category. Two-star would be pushing it.
I don't quite understand how 81% of the reviews on Trip Advisor give this hotel a 'thumbs up'. That has gotta be due to a statistical flaw. If they marketed the Halkova as a youth hostel, then yes, but otherwise you can't call this a hotel, let alone claim a 3-star rating. I guess it's my own fault for being a bit blase about the very bad reviews (one even claiming it was 'the worst hotel I've ever stayed in'), putting it down to a few whinging snobs. I was pretty sure I this hotel might the last place I'll be seen on Earth.
Ok, enough about dying alone in a dodgy hotel room. I had the rest of the afternoon to wander the streets of Prague and get my bearings right. The one (and only) positive aspect of Hotel Halkova was that I was a 7 minute walk from
Wenceslas Square. Nevermind that I had to walk past a few strip joints. In a somewhat contradictory way, the burly bodyguards made me feel safe.
When I reached the square, I didn't realise I was there. Mainly because I was looking for the typical '
town square' I was accustomed to seeing in other continental countries - usually a large, pedestrianised, squarish space surrounded by restaurants, hotels and the like. (Obviously I did almost no research for this trip). Wenceslas Square has got to be the most rectangular square I've ever seen and had cars driving up and down it. However, after checking the map and being reassured of my awesome map reading skills, I was definitely at the square.
Hungry for some food, I got my central European food fix. Mmmmm... hot dog.... with a very long sausage!
On the way to the Old Town Square, I passed a market which were selling laughing witches on swings.
Nearly at the Old Town, where I would see the 'square' I had expected at Wenceslas Square. I wasn't going to spend too long at the square as I was on my way to Prague Castle.
But never one to miss an eating opportunity, I couldn't resist the smell of the
trdelnik. After not eating the Hungarian equivalent in Budapest, I quickly handed over some cash for my bready, sweet goodness.
That wasn't the actual shop at which I purchased my trdelnik but it more nicely decorated. Roast away my dough, roast away. The finished product topped with nuts and icing sugar. Nums.
Not a very good photo, but here stands the iconic
Charles Bridge with it's statues. I would need to cross the bridge to reach the castle.
Too many tourists on the bridge to get a decent photo without an Aunty posing.
I was told to go the statue of
John of Nepomuk and pat the bronze dog for good luck. Good luck coming my way!
The walk up to the castle wasn't too steep but not recommend for the unfit.
The view of Prague from the top of the castle.
Making my way down from the castle, I found a prisoner.
After all that walking I sure was hungry. I don't like dining alone :( but you know, you gotta do what you gotta do.
Wanting some
Czech food, I sat my bottom down at
Kolkovna. The Czech Republic seems to be one of the few countries which still allows smoking in restaurants. Tsk tsk.
Even the guidebooks say 'You don't go to Prague for the food' but if a central European diet of meat and potatoes is your thing, then you would come to Prague for the food!
For entree I had the carpaccio which is not Czech cuisine but I ordered it anyway. The mini olives were tasty! For my main I had the lamb leg with spinach and potato dumplings. I love lamb shanks but I couldn't eat like this everyday.
A little paranoid about walking around in the dark alone, I headed my way back to Wenceslas Square. Knowing that I may not sleep very well tonight, I stopped for a nightcap with my ever favourite, warming cup of
gluhwein.
The sparkly hot dog and gluhwein stand. Mmmmm warming, red wine. Not the best but I just needed it to do it's job.
Ready for my one night in Prague I headed back past the strip bars back to my hotel.
The path to my hotel. Mmmmm such a safe feeling.
Well I obviously lived to the tell the tale. More Prague tomorrow!